Punjabi and Delhi Cuisine

Punjab is the Land of Five rivers is a highly agricultural state. The cuisine of this state is greatly influenced by the Mughal cuisine (see note on Mughal cuisine). The world famous Tandoori style of cooking has its roots here. Punjabi’s are bread eaters compared to a larger portion of India that prefers rice as it staple food. The heart of Punjabi cooking lies in the masalas (spice mixture) and gravies that are prepared with ginger, garlic, onions and tomatoes. This thriving agricultural state boasts a cuisine that is rich in vegetarian as well as non-vegetarian choices. Other than the obvious Tandoori dishes that are famous here, of equally importance is the Punjabi preparation Sarson Ka saag (a velvety preparation of mustard greens seasoned in with ginger, garlic, green chilies) that is served along with a corn bread called Makki Ki Roti.

Tandoori cooking was introduced in Delhi by Kundan Lal of the Moti Mahal restaurant in Dariyaganj. Why do I tell you this? Because eGullet’s very own Vivin’s family owned this restaurant.

India’s capital city, New Delhi, is a world all its own. There is so much history here in one city that even an entire book cannot do it justice. All the rulers (the Mughals, the British and others) bought with them their own cuisine and left a mark, from which emerged a very singular cuisine – a delectable mix of various cultures that now defines “Delhi Cuisine.” The Mughalai Tandoor chicken, Seekh Kebabs, biryanis (rice and meat dishes), the appetizing Naans and other breads are a core part of the food in Delhi. Then there are the British introduced sandwiches, trifles and cakes which are found on many a menu. (A point to note here: When I added Custard and Jelly to one of my books as an Indian dessert, the editor thought I was kidding. Not really. A lot of the British desserts are still very popular in Delhi and really are “Indian”!) And of course the British left behind their love for scotch whiskey.

During the partition of India and Pakistan, a large number of Punjabi’s came and settled in Delhi. They brought in the hearty fare. Delhi is home for me. The Punjabi food of Delhi is close to my heart since I grew up eating it each day. Aloo Ka Parathas (Indian griddle breads stuffed with spiced potatoes) of course with fresh home made white butter served with a tall glass of Mango Lassi (yogurt based mango drink) are on top of my list for favorite Delhi foods. (For more on North Indian breads, see our North Indian breads class). Delhi’s food has also been greatly influenced by other communities like the Banias, the Khatris and the Kyasthas.